A Closer Look at Telescopic Handlers
Todd R. Moir is the owner and principal broker of www.equipwholesale.com. Working in the equipment industry since 1975, Moir started as a yardman with Hertz Equipment in
Todd Moir
February 22, 2006 -- With so many new developments and attachments added to the tool-handling telescopic handler, this type of equipment is a must-have when working on today's demanding high-productivity construction sites. Because there are so many types and brands available, it's difficult to cover all features or individual items for an inspection. However, remembering the importance of the following components will help maximize maintenance.
The engine
Because telehandlers work primarily in the dirt, close attention should be paid to the engine and engine compartment. Many telltale signs will give you an indication if a machine has been cared for and serviced regularly or abused.
My advice for this type of machine is to do an oil sample (if at all possible) on the engine oil. The purpose is to measure the heavy metals in the oil and also check for any other foreign matter that could possibly spell trouble for your machine down the road.
As with the backhoe, most engine service companies or equipment dealers should be able to either send out your oil sample or do the analysis right at their facility.
If the oil sample option isn't available to you, check the oil level. Feel the oil for grit, dirt, or metal particles by running it between your thumb and index finger. Also check for the smell of burnt oil, and look at the color to make sure there isn't any watery or milky appearance to the lubricant. This could mean a cooling problem and/or leak.
Moving through the engine compartment, check for the condition of all belts hoses and wiring. Look for splices in the wiring harness or any other signs that the machine might have been repaired in a less-than-thorough manner. If possible, remove the radiator cap and check for the condition of the coolant inside, looking to see if it has a reddish color (rust), or the presence of fresh antifreeze. Check for any leaks in the water hoses, the oil lines, or around the engine itself. Look for water leaks around the water pump and/or oil leaks anywhere around the engine.
Inspect the radiator for any signs of damage, both in the cooling areas (fins) and on the brackets that connect the radiator to the frame of the machine. On this type of machine, this component is susceptible to vibration. Therefore, extra care should be taken to make sure the radiator is well secured and the radiator frame is not cracked. Of course, as mentioned last month, the cleanliness of the cooling fins in the radiator might be a good indication of how thorough the machine has been cared for.
Locate the air filter and open up the air box. Make sure the air box doesn't have any dust that may have passed through the cleaner and gone directly to the intake. Dirt is not a healthy thing for a hard working engine to breathe. A faulty filter or dirty air cleaner can cause real wear issues for any internal combustion engine. Next, let's look at the superstructure itself.
On a forward-reach forklift, the frame is capable of lifting and transporting lots of weight. That's what makes this workhorse so desirable around the job site. Because of the type of terrain the machine is able to traverse and the heavy loads it can carry and lift, check for wear in pins and bushings at all stress points. The main stress area on a typical telescopic handler is the main horizontal pin and the lift cylinder supports located behind the operator toward the rear of the machine. Make sure all pins are well lubricated and are round (not oblong) within the race welded on the structure. Check out all metal structural welds on the frame, looking for cracks and/or rust in the welds themselves. Also, look for any signs that a repair or non-factory weld has been placed in one of these high stress areas. Many manufacturers have issued service bulletins for retro-fit re-gusseting to strengthen areas of high stress on some models, so it's always good to check for any related service bulletins that may have been put out by the manufacturer. While inspecting the frame, also check for warping or obvious bend in the boom assembly.
Now is a good time to walk around the machine and check for any leaking wheel ends. Oil leaks onto the inside or outside of the tires can spell an expensive wheel end repair ahead. Make sure while checking wheels to ensure all lug nuts, bolts, tie rods, and axle assemblies are free of damage and are properly fitted and tight. Make sure to look at all the lift, slave, frame tilt, carriage tilt, steer, side shift and outrigger cylinders (if equipped). Look for signs of leaking or pitted chrome, scratched rods, or weeping seals. Any of these can cause leaky cylinders in the future.
Carriage
Let's take a look at the carriage assembly and check for properly mounted back rest, straight forks, and straight fork support bars. Also make sure there are no holes burnt in the forks. This can make the fork brittle and cause it to break. Now let's continue our walk around and look for any other signs of damage. Scratched or bent ROPS or scraped risers where the boom connects to the frame could indicate a machine has been on its side.
A good check should be done for any frayed hoses or brittle casings on the hoses or any splices. Although not necessarily an expensive fix, it can make for quite a mess if a worn hydraulic hose breaks.
Now it's time to put the machine through its paces. First, check for any overhead power lines or other obstacles. Carefully climb into the cab, and fasten your seatbelt. If the machine doesn't have a working belt, don't even start it up. With their frame-leveling ability to pick weight up in the air and go over rough terrain, these machines do have a tendency to tip over. If that were to ever happen, stay with the machine. You can't move out of the way fast enough if the machine tips over. The odds are not in your favor if you try and jump out! Now, check to be sure the parking brake is engaged.
Lower the outriggers, if so equipped, and run the boom up in the air at a 45 degree angle. Pay careful attention to any chatter or binding as the boom goes out. Run the boom up to full extension, still looking or listening for any excess play. Now retract the boom assembly and listen again for any chatter or binding. This could indicate out of adjustment retraction cables or chains, or at the worst, a bent boom assembly. Also check the wear pads or roller bearings on the boom end that allow the inner and outer boom assemblies to move freely. Make sure no excessive play is noticed. Bringing the boom assembly in at half way and at roughly 45 degrees, check all other functions • carriage tilt, carriage swing (if equipped), and frame leveling operations.
Return the boom to horizontal or at least (depending on the model) so that you have good visibility, release the parking brake. Now check for forward and reverse travel functions. Check all gears forward and reverse, paying close attention to the feel of the foot brake. Is the pedal firm and tight? Does it feel that it is solid enough to hold the machine under slight throttle? Now check the throttle. Is the gas pedal responsive? Also rev up the engine slightly. Is there an excess amount of blue or white smoke? If the engine is properly warmed up there should be only a slight black puff of diesel exhaust detected. Just remember all diesel engines smoke and the amount will correlate directly to the age, hours and condition of the engine, injectors and/or pump or many other possible variables.
While we're in the cab, let's finish checking all controls. Are they tight? When you actuate them, are they responsive? Check for any hydraulic leaks going to and from the control handles if the controls are not electronically activated.
The last thing we should try to do is some sort of load test. This can be difficult to do properly out in the field without the correctly measured weight blocks to really test it out. A good indicator of a machine's ability to lift a reasonable amount of capacity is if there is a small scissor lift available with fork lifting pockets on it. A small 26-foot electric scissor can weigh up to 5,000 pounds and can give you an idea if a machine will have the ability to pick a load at least in the first load chart area (depending on model and lift capacity). When making any pick with this type of machine, be sure to refer to the load chart (usually located in the cab or in the operator's manual) to make sure the job you are attempting is within the guidelines of these very versatile and productive machines.
